Natural dyeing workshop

After spending some weeks deciding on what exactly we were going to dye with, and then worrying on more than one occasion that the dyes weren’t going to p

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erform, last Saturday’s workshop was full of pleasant surprises…

There were seven participants, all friendly and enthusiastic, and all with interesting tales, information and tips to add to the proceedings. The dyes used were (from bottom to top): hawthorn berries, brown onion skins, red onion skins, Tagetes minuta, dahlia flowers, Tagetes lemonii (dried flowers/heads), Eucalyptus cinerea, E. incognita (yep!) and betel nuts.

I didn’t have time to follow Jenny Dean’s recipe (in Wild Colour) for the haws, so boiled up some leaves and twigs for about 40 minutes to get as much tannin in to the dyepot, then added about a kilo of berries and simmered for three-quarters of an hour, then left overnight. This mixture was strained and reheated for the dyeing experiment. They turned the woolen yarn a shade of light brown that I’d never had before, so that’s one for future ref.

onionsall

The onion skins were amazing! (right to left: brown onions, red onions, Tagetes lemonii). Even though we used a scant 50% wof, the brown ones dyed a deep copper, while the red ones (close-up below) came out dark, khaki green; the unmordanted ties were lime green, and both without trying. Could it have been the copper pipes at the Guild?

A smaller quantity of dahlia heads than I would have liked gave such a deep colour, and onions2redwhen we dipped half (or more) of the skein back in the liquor with bicarb added, well, even better.

I was concerned that as the tagetes flowers were dry, they’d give muted shades of old gold. Lemonmii gave such a deep sunshine gold that at first I thought it was the brown onions, and the minuta heads could have been fresh – the brightness and intensity of the resulting colour is still a source of amazement.

E. cinerea performed to its usual standard, while the other (maybe a type of peppermint gum?) gave a very pale yellow. Still a good shade to have in the line-up.

The betel nuts? These gave a deeper brown than I’ve ever managed before. None of the pinkish hue, mind. They were, as last time, soaked in water and bicarb for a couple of days.

All in all a successful run of experiments and a great bunch of people to work with!

Leaf prints

eucalyptus scarf11A while ago I came back from a local op shop with a number of silk scarves and hankies, and leaf prints and indigo in mind. Then this weekend I managed to get hold of some Eucalyptus nicholii leaves, thanks to the local parrots who are currently “pruning” all the local trees and scattering the contents within easy reach. Nice.

I decided on simple and laid one scarf out on a piece of calico, dropping some leaves onto it as though they’d fallen that way, then eucalyptus scarf02placing another scarf on top and wrapping them up in a small bundle. They were placed in the steamer for around two hours, but I can’t be sure of the exact time.

euc scarf31After cooling slightly, the bundle was unwrapped with a pleasing result. The leaf prints appear slightly darker on one scarf, which was opaque, but one the translucent scarf they add to the blowing-in-the-wind effect rather than looking stationary.

Not bad for a first attempt. I did however notice that the prints in the centre of the bundle were paler (where the steam hadn’t penetrated as much) and the tighter end was a little ruffled. Point to remember for next time: wrap around a bamboo cane of at least 1/2″ diameter and steam for longer.

Onion skins

I’ve come back from the supermarket with the occasional odd item, but I guess this counts as “eccentric” rather than plain odd. It just so happened that I was in the veggie section while the onions were being made more presentable, and immediately clapped eyes upon a box full of dye material.

I had to think twice, tonion skinshree times, before actually asking for them, but then eccentricity took over from reserve and the result speaks for itself.

The guy did say I was welcome to help him sort the remaining red onions; I would have liked to have returned the favour, but I think I may have pulled off all the skins and left naked veggies.

In the meantime, hands off – they’re destined for a workshop.

Spinning the Tukidale I

This is definitely a fleece that prefers combing, and spinning from the bottom of the staple in the grease. Flickispinning tukidaleng didn’t work, as at the bottom end there are a lot of shorter, finer fibres. With combing, I was able to remove these and set them aside to see what they spin up like. I’ll probably scour them and then put them through the wool combs.

I did scour a couple of lots of uncombed staples prior to spinning, but due to the high micron count, leaving the grease in is kinder on the hands (and everything else). I have yet to decide how to tackle these.

Back to the combed staples. The longer fibres were etukidaleIIasy to manage, and quick to spin and ply. The resulting yarn is quite pleasing for a first attempt – definitely too coarse for much other than a carpet, but still with a degree of softness. After scouring the skein, it came out whiter than white. I look forward to seeing how well it takes dye.

The next step is to spin some singles for warp. As the total fleece weight was 2.7Kg, there should be enough to experiment with.

Heirlooms

shuttlesEvery now and again I’m lucky enough when a friend or colleague (or both) shows me something fibre- or craft-related that belonged to a relative, or was made by a relative. Fibre-crafts and social history, the perfect mix!

Today I held a drop spindle and some weaving shuttles that had been brought from Cypress in their grandparents’ luggage, together with some home-produced, homespun silk, not to mention a wooden hand reel fsilk.jpgor catching the evening meal. All were at least eighty years old.

I was a bit nervous at first to take hold of the drop spindle, but when I did, the first thing was to run my fingers along the grain of the wood and smell it. Just like an old church, or the Guild room – wood, wax polish and plenty of human usage! The silk had no smell, just sheen and body, and plenty of promise. There were also several reels made from bamboo (grown in the village), wound round with handspun cotton. Enough to write a book on? Definitely!

Tukidale

Tukidale is just one of the many sheep breeds I’d read about in The Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook – a publication that should come with an addiction-warning. After some research into which interesting fibres I could either find locally or import legally, I was amazed to find there is a Tukidale breeder in South Australia. Not only that, buttukidale less than 10km from home.

I couldn’t pass up this opportunity to try a “carpet wool” for myself, and perhaps introduce it to fellow Guild members. There must be some interest in a hard-wearing yarn for bags, rugs, tapestries, etc?

A short drive along one of those winding, Hills roads (a careful-what-you-have-for-breakfast-and-don’t-read-anything-if-you’re-a-passenger road) I was lucky enough to get the last fleece they had, although could have waited (eagerly) until the next shearing in September. I also learnt heaps about the breed in a very short time.

With long staples, minimal dirt and a large micron, this should be easy to clean. Spinning will be another matter; there doesn’t seem to be any information online about this particular breed, although some pictures of Scottish Blackface appear similar. Just have to get on and spin some…

Pomegranate II

Where does all the red go from the peel? Having been more successful with the betel nuts after an alkaline soak, I decided to try with pomegranates. A fair amount of peel was dried off in the food drier; it’s getting coolealkaline soakr and damp at the moment, so I wanted to avoid the harvest going mouldy.

A jam jar was filled to about a third of the way up with dried peel broken into small pieces, then water was added to within an inch from the top (to allow for bubbling, etc.) and then a good spoonful of bicarb. The colour came out shyly over the first few hours, but after a whilcottone and with a bit of stirring….. treacle.

What with a host of other projects on the go, I actually forgot about this for a day, and couldn’t do anything until the third day anyway. A small skein of scoured cotton was added to liquor in a larger jar and left for a day (or two?). For the sake of speed, I gave the skein a wash in laundry powder (which made it go darker at first), then rinsed until clear. You can see that it produced quite an acceptable colour.skein

I didn’t want to leave wool soaking for so long in the liquor – pH10 – but then tossed between an alkaline soak and an alkaline boil and which would be the most damaging. Boil it was – for about twenty minutes. The colour isn’t all that bad, but the damage caused doesn’t really make the risk worthwhile. Maybe like a home perm.

Native mistletoe

I went to collect some mistletoe – Amyema? – from river red gum (Eucalptus camaldulensis) nearby; I’ve been watching it carefully over the past few months, and the sight of amistletoe pot lorry parked on the last remaining patch of undeveloped land had me heading off with secateurs and collecting bag.

After pruning a few shoots, I noticed there were plenty of dead leaves on the ground, dark brown and crisp. They were surprisingly easy to tell apart from the gum leaves, as they were thicker and more curled in their dry state – and more brittle. I’d soon collected enough for an experiment.

Both fresh and dried leAmyemaaves were given their own pot to soak in overnight. The next morning, the fresh leaves had started to ferment, and there was a waxy film on the surface and the sides of the pot. Simmering for an hour produced no noticeable colour (just an unpleasant smell), so I turned to the dry leaves. The liquor was already a deep brown before cooking, and after an hour the yarn was added. It had already been in a E. sideroxylon dyepot and had only picked up a smidgen of colour. This time, however, the yarn took on a straw colour.

Eucalyptus cinerea

E cinerea1E. cinerea is about the only eucalyptus I’ve had success with in the dyepot. Although many sources advise that a mordant isn’t necessary, I wasn’t going to take any chances: 50:50 alum + CoT to 15% wof it was again. The leaves were dry and had been lying at the side of the house for a few months in the hope that some extra sun would improve the colour. They were placed in the pot along with their twigs, normal tap water as opposed to filtered, and simmered for about an hour. The liquid was a pale apricot colour, as opposed to E. sideroxylon which gives a deep, chocolate-red as E cinerea 2soon as it hits the water.

I persevered, and after straining and adding the yarn the liquid started to change and it was clear I was going to get something interesting. Unfortunately I can’t adjust the colour in the photo to reflect the true shade: a coppery-tomato. Reminds me of a stick of copper wax when I did some brass rubbing years ago.

The second photo is a bit more true; these were a couple of hanks I’d dyed before Christmas, both cinerea.

Not a common tree in nearby suburbs, but definitely worth hunting for and stocking up on the leaves.

Betel nuts

The sight of a packet of betel nut slices in an Asian supermarket immediately brought an image to mind of someone smiling widely, teeth and gums a deep red… and the resulting red stains on the footpaths for miles around. If something can stain a footpath in New Delhi, it must be able to dye wool…

My first attempt was on a leftover skein that was used for tying other projects – an op shop purchase of someone else’s handspun from long ago. I usually find that this takes the dye more strongly than what I actually want to dye.

The betel slices were placed in a jam jar and soaked overnight, with the occasional stir. The next day they had swollen nicely and were then added to the dyepot and simmered for an hour. After straining, I added the above-mentioned skein, 10% wof alum-mordanted, and simmered for a further hour or so. The brew smelt like rooibos tea and had a similar colour. I added a spoonful of bicarb at the end to see if it did anything, but not this time. Most of the colour came out, leaving the wool dyed light pinky-brown (left).betel

They chew the nuts with lime… alkaline extraction! The second time I soaked some more slices in water with added bicarb. It was definitely darker, so left it overnight and repeated the experiment with some of the tricky Finn x Romney x Corriedale handspun, mordanted as above. As you can see (right), the second dyebath was more successful at obtaining a deeper colour. The tie-up skein performed to its usual standard by taking on an even deeper colour (centre of ball).